Finding a bow that works for you can be hard and easy at the same time.  There is a lot that goes into selecting the right bow for you individually. 

The best way I can give advice on finding the right one is to go to a local archery shop and have a tech fit you.  They will measure your draw length and weight.  The weight can be adjusted to your liking after you make your purchase.  They will also get it all tuned and ready to shoot.  If you think just because you just went and spent $1,500.00 on a new bow you made the best decision on a bow, you may be wrong.  And just because your friend says the bow he or she shoots is the best thing since sliced bread doesn't mean that is the bow for you.  There is a true difference in a high end expensive bow from a low end bow, but just because of the higher price tag doesn't mean it is a better bow for you individually. 

I myself used to figure the more I spend the better the bow will be.  I went to a shop and had them measure me and fit the bow to my liking.  I had a price range I was interested in and shot 3 different bows.  The first one I shot was the Hoyt AlphaMax 32.  It was lightweight, very durable, super quiet, and had a very smooth draw.  It just felt right.  It's hard to explain, but when you feel it you know.  Up until I had tried this bow I had shot an older Browning, that I traded for.  I was never measured for it and never shot it before I purchased it.  It was a lesson I learned the hard way.  The other two bows were Bowtechs.  I liked how they shot, but just not as much as the Hoyt.  Nothing personal against Bowtech as they are making some of the better bows out there.  The Hoyt just felt more comfortable to me personally.  I felt more hand shock with the Bowtechs, and their draw just wasn't quite as nice.  In the end I walked out of the archery shop a satisfied, $1,000 less in my pocket, customer.  Looking back I wouldn't change a thing.

Going from my old bow to the Hoyt I shoot now showed me just how far the archery world has progressed.  There is a reason more and more people are getting into archery hunting.  With new technology comes nicer more durable equipment.  I have thought about upgrading many a time, but have been very satisfied with my current bow I just can't put it down.  It also gives me a greater appreciation for older archers who have had success with older equipment and guys that are still shooting traditional.  I will give some pointers on finding that right bow for you personally.

• Start with a budget and stick to it.  If you only want to spend between $300 to $500, go and shoot some in that range.  There are multiple bows in this range that work great and shoot just as well as a $1,000 bow.  If your budget is over $1000 shoot some less expensive bows to get a feel and you may be surprised.  This also allows for more money on the extra stuff like, sights, stabilizers, rests, quivers, a release, and arrows.
• Don't buy the first bow you pick up, have it feel good and be done.  Make sure and shoot different bows from different companies.  There are more and more bow companies coming out every year.
• Find a good archery shop with knowledgeable technicians.  Finding the right person to set up your bow can be hard to find.  You may have to travel to find the right one, but it's easy to see when someone knows what they are doing.  Find someone that can show you how to tune certain things yourself.  It will save time and money.
  
• Shoot at a weight that is comfortable.  Shooting at 70 lbs is great, but if you can't hold it back or have to strain to pull it back, it is pointless.  Find a weight you can hold back for several minutes.  You never know when that big bull might take 5 minutes to calm down and give you a good shot.  I personally shoot right around 63 lbs.  I still shoot at 260 fps with a  370 gr. arrow.  It is more than enough to kill an elk.
• Look at used bows.  A lot of archery hunters upgrade their equipment every year.  I would say buying new is best, but there are amazing deals to be found with a used bow.  A new bow will depreciate quickly, which can be great if you can find a bow that is only a year old.  If you go this route I would suggest finding a higher end bow.  A bow that sells for $1,000 new may sell for around $600 the next year if it is used.  There is risk in doing this as it is no different that buying a used car.  You never know how the previous owner treated it.
• After selecting your bow there are a multitude of options to add.  It goes from a one pin sight up to a seven pin sight.  Different size pins and colors.  Then containment rests to drop a way rests.  Three arrow quiver up to a twelve arrow quiver.  Short stabilizer to some up to 18 inches and longer.  Caliper release and back tension releases.  And any type of arrow you can think of.  Accessories on a bow can be as cheap or expensive as you want.

Hopefully if you are looking at getting into archery hunting or just archery shooting in general these tips will help.  There are so many options out there it can get stressful on finding the right equipment. 

After picking up your bow the next thing is to practice, practice, practice.  If you think you can just pick up a bow and go kill an animal, it just isn't that easy.  I don't shoot near as much as I should, but I make sure and get out two to three times a week and shoot at least 30 to 50 arrows each outing around a month or two months before season.  Ideally its best to shoot everyday to perfect your form, which will make you that much better of an archer.  Also don't just practice the same distances every time.  Shoot at odd yardages as well as shooting positions from standing, kneeling, and sitting in a chair.  The farther distance you can become accurate at the easier the closer shots become.  90 yards isn't anything you should try and kill an animal at, but practicing at that range will make you that much more effective at 40 and 50 yards.

Getting into archery hunting can be the most rewarding thing you can do.  It takes a lot of patience and skill to be able to kill an animal at under 50 yards, and even greater skill at under 30 yards.  Be prepared to be frustrated as archery hunting is not for someone who thinks it is an easy thing to do.  Today's outdoor shows may make it look easy, but the people on those shows put in the time and effort it takes to become a successful archer.  It will test everything you thought you knew about hunting.

Have you ever wanted to hunt away from the road?  Go a little farther from the pickup or main camp?  Growing up in South Dakota I never really got to experience this very thing.  I would generally go out with friends and family and spent a lot of time in the pickup or walking draws, and getting picked up at the other end.

It wasn't until I moved to Montana I got to experience  hunting from a camp.  My first experience was finally in 2008 when I drew a very coveted rifle elk tag on the Custer National Forest.  I was lucky enough to score on a great bull the first morning out.  I also had camped out of a small tent a couple of times with my brothers if we ventured a long ways from home, but elk camp was the first time in a large canvas tent.

In 2010 it would be my first trip to the mountains of Montana, when my Brother Todd drew a mountain goat tag.  This was also where I figured out when you think you are in decent shape, try going after mountain goats and you will find out what kind of shape you are actually in.  It will be a trip I will remember for the rest of my life.  Although it wasn't my hunt it was still very special to me getting to share time on the mountain with my brothers as Kirk came as well.  We backpacked in around 8 miles.  After hiking in we set up camp.  This is where I got my first true taste of a camp away from any amenities.  After this trip I began to collect gear that would be vital to make camping like this just that much more comfortable.

In 2012 Todd and I went elk hunting and did the same sort of set up camping away from the pickup and trail head.  I scoured the internet looking for sources for backpacking, and found a great source at www.kenetrek.com.  They have an equipment list on there that assisted me greatly as I began the process of getting ready for the fall hunt.  Some items I had and some I did not.  I will list the things I take along for a hunt that can sustain you for approximately 5 to 7 days.

My list consists of the following:

GENERAL:

• Backpack-Rocky Mountain Kodiak and Alaska II Frame Pack (invest in a good pack frame as it can make a huge difference in making the hunt enjoyable and not wear you out before you even hunt)
  
• Knife - Havalon Piranta, and other multiple knives and sharpener
  
• Multi-Tool - Cabelas small pocket multi-tool great for removing Havalon blades
• GPS - Garmin E-Trex Legend and extra batteries and public land chip
  

CAMP GEAR:

• Sleeping Bag
• Therm-a-rest sleeping pad - a must for extended stay makes sleeping more comfortable which makes the hunt more enjoyable
• Tent - small 2 man tent, weight is key when backpack hunting so be wise in your choice.  A simple tarp works well too during early season
• Stove - Primus Micor Ti and extra bottles x2, use for boiling drinking water as well
  
• Cooking - small pot and enamel coffee cup
• Cooking clean up - small bottle of dish soap
• Extra water bottles and water bladder
• Water tablets for purification
• Matches and lighter
• Fire starter
  
• Headlamp x2 and extra batteries
• Camera
  
• Para cord 50 to 100 ft. - Multiple uses
• Electrical tape
• 1st Aid kit
• Bear Spray if hunting in known bear location
  

CLOTHING:

• Socks 1 pair every 2 days
• Underwear 1 pair every 2 days
• Long underwear later season
• Pants - Comfortable hiking pair and Sitka Mountain Pants
  
• Cap and Sitka Traverse Beanie
• Jacket - Sitka 90% and Sitka Jetstream Vest
• Bandana mainly for wiping down sweat during hot days
  
• Boots - Kenetrek Mountain 400's lucky my feet don't sweat

PERSONAL GEAR

• Toothbrush - wisps cheap and lightweight
• Small bottle of liquid body soap - Dead Down Wind
• Toilet Paper - one roll and bio wipes
• Chap stick
• Small towel for cleaning up and body moist towels
• Scentless Deodorant
• Sun Glasses
• Pain Reliever
  
• Mole Skin best use for blisters for me personally
• Fingernail clippers
• Sunscreen
• Hand Sanitizer  
• Stuff Sacks for Garbage and used items helps keep camp organized
  

HUNTING ITEMS:

• Bow - Hoyt AlphaMax 32
• Arrows - Easton STExcel
• Broadheads - Muzzy MX3 and extra blades
• Wrenches and Tools for fine tuning or repairs
• String Wax - Bohning silicon wax
• Binoculars - Burris Landmark 10x32
• Rangefinder - Bushnell 800
• Camo Clothing - Sitka Traverse Beanie, Glove, Zip-T, Balaclava, Jetstream Vest, 90% Jacket, Core Zip-T, Mountain Pant, and Shooter Glove
• Wind checker -  Dead Down Wind
• Game Calls
• Montana Decoy Decoys
• Game Bags

FOOD:

• Cliff Bars
• Trail Mix
• Oat Meal
• Freeze Dried Meals - Mountain House (1 to 2 per day) Breakfast, Dinner, and Desert
  
• Instant Coffee
• Sugar
• Cream
• Propel Drink Mix (2 small boxes)
  

This pretty much sums up what I will pack for an extended stay.  It may seem like a lot, but it isn't bad when you get everything packed up.  It also helps if you are hunting with other people as you avoid doubling up on items and you can split the weight.  With everything in my pack it weighs roughly 45 to 50 lbs. 

I hope this will help anyone who has ever wanted to hunt a little farther from the road.  I'm not an expert at backpack hunting, but enjoy doing it and gain more experience each year.  One of the biggest keys to hunting away from the road and main camp is to find water.  If you can't find water your hunt will be over before it gets started.  Here are some pictures of my empty pack and equipment and then what it looks like fully loaded.